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Guadalajara, Mexico - A place to discover!

Travel time and best routes to this city: From Houston it's two hours by plane. From Washington DC: five hours by plane. From Mexico City: one hour by plane.

Pollution index? Usually good. Moderate in the nicer areas of the city (North-West). But in the South it is horrible. In Winter, the pollution is worse than in Mexico City, and it is bad throughout the whole city because so many people burn things to stay warm at night.

Security concerns? Barely any. It is actually a VERY safe city compared to the other major cities of Mexico (Mexico City & Monterrey). If you're in the wrong part of town, that's a different story; but thats the case anywhere.

Housing: All in the northwest part of the city (Zapopan): Valle Real, Puerta de Hierro, and Colinas de San Javier. The first two are American-style gated communities, and Colinas has all of the houses surrounded by a gate. Houses are almost all three rooms or bigger with a maid's quarters. Commute times can be anywhere from 15-20 minutes.

International schools: The American School of Guadalajara is an excellent school, despite claims that the kids are snobbish and clickish by many close-minded, anti-social consulate kids. The kids are actually very nice and 10 times more social than American kids. Your kids just have to be willing to adapt and have open minds. The school itself is MUCH more challenging than American public schools, since it is a preparatory school that will definetly prepare your kids for college. The other option is the Lincoln School, but barley anyone goes there; its actually on the other side of the city.

Preschool/daycare available: American School.

Is this a good city for families/singles/couples? Great in all respects. It is a very social city.

Are there problems with racial, religious or gender prejudices? Yes. Indigenous or very mixed people are their own class. The elite do not mix with them. And since there are no blacks here, Mexicans have a uneducated view of them.

What difficulties would someone with physical disabilities have living in this city? Not many; there are ramps almost everywhere.

Interesting/fun things to do: Wow! Malls with American-style brand names, parties, souvenir and artesanial shopping (Tlaquepaque, Tonala, etc), beaches, mountain trips, etc.

What fast food and decent restaurants are available? McDonald's, Burger King, Wendy's, KFC, Carl's Jr., etc. Restaurants are Guadalajara's strong point. There is almost everything here, from very good steaks to excellent sushi. Mexican-style sushi is delicious and better and less expensive than American sushi.

What is the availability (and the relative cost) of groceries and household supplies? Costco, Wal-Mart, Sam's, etc. Superama (owned by Wal-Mart) is the most American-style grocery store, although it is also the most expensive.

What comments can you make about using credit cards and ATMs? Both are used everywhere.

What type of automobile is suitable to bring (or not to bring) because of rugged terrain, lack of parts and service, local restrictions, carjackings, etc? All can be brought. Because it is a dense, urban city with small streets, a car is the best option; but an SUV is best because of its durability.

Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left? Right hand side, but this is the same place where people will pass you on the right side, ignore stop lights, ignore speed limits, not use turn signals, etc. It is literally video game driving. If you can drive in Mexico, you can drive ANYWHERE.

Are local trains, buses, and taxis safe? Affordable? The Metro and buses are very cheap, but they are dirty and confusing. Taxis are VERY affordable; just know that if the taxi driver suspects you are a foreigner, he might want to take advantage of you.

What is the best way to make phone calls back home? Modem phones. Especially Sunrocket. It is a regular house phone, but you can have up to three US area codes. With this phone you can make unlimited calls to the US and almost anywhere in the world for something like $200 a year.

Do you have any recommendations regarding cell phones? You can get any cell phone here; just dont bring yours from the US. You would have to have it reformatted, which costs too much and takes too much time. Most people use Telcel, which is either by prepaid phone cards or monthly plans. Other companies are Unefon, Movistar, etc.

Items you would ship if you could do it again? None really. If you're really into American food, there is an American grocery shop on Terranova.

Availability and cost of domestic help: Very cheap.

How much of the local language do you need to know for daily living? If you really want to socialize and adjust, you should be fluent. Most people in Guadalajara do not speak English, and even educated people speak limited English.

English-language religious services available? Denominations? There is a Catholic Church (by Tony Roma's and La Gran Plaza) where services are given in English.

English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost? There are English-language newspapers, and you can get American satellite TV.

Internet access cost and quality: Usually through Telmex.

Size of expat community: Large.

Morale among expats: Excelent to good, depending on their attitudes.

Are there decent job opportunities for expats on the local economy? Not really. Mexican salaries are ridiculously low.

Entertaining/social life: This is the best part of Guadalajara. There are numerous restaurants, night clubs, social gatherings, etc.

Dress code at work and in public: Dressy-casual. Not as formal as Mexico City. Mexico in general is a dressy country. Shorts are frowned upon.

Any health concerns? What is the quality of medical care available? Not if you don't drink the water or eat in the slums. Hospital San Javier and Hospital Puerta de Hierro are excellent.

Quality pet care available? Okay. There are local vet contacts through the consulate. The kennels are mediocre.

You can leave behind your: negative misconceptions about Mexico. It is an amazing, rich place and will suprise you if you have never been there before.

But don't forget your: sunscreen, bathing suit, and adventurous spirit!

Weather patterns? Three Seasons: Winter, Summer, and Rainy. In all seasons there is a constant sea-like breeze that makes it comfortable. November-February (Winter) brings highs in the low 80's, lows in the 45-50's.

Can you save money? Yes and no. If you stay home and choose to do nothing, than yes; otherwise it is the same as in the US.

What unique local items can you spend it on? Local Mexican crafts. Also, in the nearby town of Tequila, where the famous beverage is made, Tequila is a popular item.

Knowing what you now know, would you still go there? YES. Guadalajara is a great, amazingly fun place. Work is great also.

Any other comments: Guadalajara is by far the best of the Mexican cities to live in. It is not at all as unsafe as Mexico City and not as elitist or as hot as Monterrey. It is also described as the most Mexican of all cities, and gives a good balance of modern and traditional to people who come here. Do not expect to come to some tourist paradise with Mariachis playing on every street corner. It is also a modern city that, in some parts, is very well developed. It is an excellent post.

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February 2006

(The contributor is affiliated with the U.S. Consulate in Guadalajara and has lived in that city for a little over a year.)

Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the [an error occurred while processing this directive] : There are direct flights to Guadalajara from Houston, Dallas, and Atlanta. It takes eight hours to get here from DC.

Pollution index? Moderate to unhealthy. In the summer it rains, so the pollution isn't bad. The rest of the year it is bad.

Security concerns? None really. We have not felt threatened at all. There is a large narco-traffic population, but those people seem to stay with their own.

Housing: Consulate housing tends to be in large, gated communities, 30-40 minutes from the Consulate. We are in a non-gated community (Providencia), closer in. Our commute is 15-20 minutes, but this is not the norm. Being closer has made it easier for us to find a preschool within walking distance of our house—our nanny takes our daughter. Most houses have three bedrooms plus maid's quarters. No bathtubs.

International schools: The American School has a good reputation, although the drug families send their kids there, too. Does that make it safer? Maybe.

Preschool/daycare available: Our daughter attends preschool 3.5 hrs/day for US$250 a month. There are many preschools available; ours is at the top end of the price range.

What accommodations do schools at post make for special-needs kids? There are many services for special-needs kids.

Is this a good city for families/singles/couples? Best for families.

Is it a good city for gay/lesbian expats? According to friends, Guadalajara has the largest gay (male?) population in Mexico. But we don't see much evidence of this on the streets, due to the traditional nature of Mexicans and the influence of the church.

Are there problems with racial, religious or gender prejudices? Not that we have experienced.

What difficulties would someone with physical disabilities have living in this city? Most places are not wheelchair-accessible, we have not seen any signs in Braille, and traffic might not stop for someone with a white cane.

Interesting/fun things to do: There are great city parks, a nice zoo, the beach is 3-4 hrs away, mountains are near by, there is good fishing, biking, and many historical towns/cities/ruins nearby to visit.

What fast food and decent restaurants are available? McDonald’s, Carl's Jr., Dunkin Donuts, (many fast food chains are here). As for eating out at restaurants: there are not a lot of options, but there is a good selection of international restaurants. Lots of tacos but no Taco Bell!.

What is the availability (and the relative cost) of groceries and household supplies? Less than in DC, but probably on a par with supermarket costs in Kansas or someplace like that. But we do have Costco and Wal-Mart (and a few smaller foreign food stores), so you can buy most anything you need.

What comments can you make about using credit cards and ATMs? We haven't had any problems.

What type of automobile is suitable to bring (or not to bring) because of rugged terrain, lack of parts and service, local restrictions, carjackings, etc? Any car would be fine. There are large dealerships for Nissan, Toyota, Ford and Dodge.

Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left? Right, but don’t assume that other drivers will grant you the right-away you are entitled to.

Are local trains, buses, and taxis safe? Affordable? There are no trains. Buses are fine, but most people drive for weekend trips. Taxis are inexpensive and reliable. Toll roads are good but expensive (US$50 to/from the beach in tolls alone)

What is the best way to make phone calls back home? Skype, Lingo, or a callback service (Koala or One Suite).

Do you have any recommendations regarding cell phones? The best values are the prepaid cell phone cards (but they have less coverage).

Items you would ship if you could do it again? A mop and a humidifier.

Availability and cost of domestic help: 5 days/week or live-in help costs US$400/month. Domestic help is NOT easy to find. It took us three months. Many families have brought TCNs in to work in their homes.

How much of the local language do you need to know for daily living? You could get by if you only go to Costco and Wal-Mart for shopping and spend all of your time with the consulate community.

English-language religious services available? Denominations? Yes. Catholic and Anglican.

English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost? Basic cable with Internet costs $50/month for 20 channels. There are some English-language newspapers available; even the Miami Herald makes it here.

Size of expat community: Mostly just the Consulate.

Morale among expats: Fine.

Are there decent job opportunities for expats on the local economy? Not really. Local pay is low. Spanish would be required.

Entertaining/social life: Lots of cafés and restaurants, movie theaters, good art exhibits...

Dress code at work and in public: Business casual. On the street you'll see lots of Spandex.

Any health concerns? What is the quality of medical care available? Pollution and stomach bugs are the main concern. Medical care is great. There are English-speaking doctors and great hospitals.

You can leave behind your: winter coats!

But don't forget your: sunscreen, fans, and slippers for the tile floors.

Weather patterns? Winter is sunny and mild: cool at night (lowest of 37) and 75 or so during the day. Rainy season is June-September. April-June is hot and dry. Housing does not have heat or A/C and is poorly insulated. There are lots of tile floors, which are nice in the summer but cold in the winter.

Can you save money? Not really.

What unique local items can you spend it on? Ceramics, silver, arts and crafts.

Knowing what you now know, would you still go there? Yes.

Any other comments: Guadalajara is a very easy place to live. Mexicans are friendly and caring people, but they have busy lives, so few consulate families have local friends. Don't talk religion or politics until you are very comfortable in the relationships you make here.

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March 2003

(March 2003. The contributor has lived in Guadalajara for six months.)

Travel time to post from Europe or the US (check flight schedules with Expedia): Five days of hellish driving from DC. Longer if point of origin is not DC.

Average daily commute: 20 minutes

Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)? Moderate to Unhealthy. My childhood asthma has returned.

Security concerns? There are lots of drug dealers and money launderers in Guadalajara, but their presence is principally below the surface all seems well

Is housing predominantly apartments or houses with yards? Predominantly houses with yards. Some apartments.

International schools used by community: American School.

Good post for families/singles/couples? Great post for families, couples good too. Singles might be a little boring. Guadalajarians (they're called Tapatios) are very provincial and it's hard to meet singles here. Actually, it's hard to break into social groups period. The friends and families are very old and established. Even people from other Mexican cities complain that they feel like outsiders after living here for 20 years. There are lots of married men who would like to date single women, however.

Good post for gay/lesbian expatriates? There is a gay community here, but it's very closed and difficult to find from the signs I've seen. My neighbor is gay and he is extremely cautious and private. It's not very acceptable to be gay in a provincial town like Guadalajara, but I think you could find it if you were looking.

What accommodations does the mission make for non-traditional Members of Household, including unmarried partners (same or opposite sex)? Is host-government accommodating? This I don't know. But, post is very warm and friendly. The Americans here right now are very nice and I think wouldn't have issues with this. Tapatios are a little bit more judgmental and might be more apt to frown or gossip about a gay couple. The Americans are very nice, but this can change with ebb and flow of people.

Interesting/fun things to do: Shopping is the number one past time. There are lots of beautiful artisan objects, furniture, and junk to buy. Tonala is a cheap artisan town, Tlaquepaque is more spendy, but prettier and has a lot of atmosphere. Tequila is the town where they make....tequila, and it's fun to go to the tequila factories, but tequila is cheaper in Guadalajara as it's all distributed here, not in Tequila.

What is there to do after-hours? Bars, discos, clubs, restaurants. Mexicans like to throw loud parties and there's usually one in your neighborhood when you would prefer to be sleeping.

Fast food available and price of a Big Mac Meal (or similar)? McDonalds is about the same as in the U.S. KFC, Burger King -- they're all here. It's cheaper to eat tacos though, and they are better.

Decent restaurants available? Great restaurants: Argentine, Mexican, Spanish. Steak is definitely available. Sushi and Chinese too, but the sushi is kind of weird with cream cheese and often deep fried.

Food and groceries? You can get anything you want here and basic foodstuffs like meat and vegetables, fruits are cheaper than in the U.S. Anything imported from the U.S., like processed foods, is somewhat more expensive.

Items you would ship if you could do it again? Nuts are expensive in Mexico. Health foods, vitamins, eichenacea, they're here, but not so easy to find exactly what you might want. There is wine here, but the Mexicans aren't really a wine-drinking society, so the selections are sometimes a little weird. If you are a wine snob, I would ship a some.

Availability and cost of domestic help? Maids are available and cost between US$13 and 15 for a day's work. Gardeners are available as well, for about the same price. Nannies are harder to come by and several people here have been in dire straits without nannies, taking months to find good help.

Realistic language needs: You need Spanish.

English-language newspaper/TV: There is CNN, ABC, NBC, and CBS on cable. A lot of movies and TV are in English with Spanish subtitles, but without at least paying for one English channel you might be frustrated with Mexican TV, because sometimes it's dubbed and awful.

Cable/Satellite TV Available? Yes, both.

Internet access available (cost & quality)? Yes, DSL (comes with cable TV with CNN about US$80 per month). The modem available too at a cheaper cost. Good service.

Wages and job opportunities for expats on the local economy? Not so good. There is some project out of Mexico City called SNAP which claims they will help your spouse get employed, but they are full of it and make promises and haven't helped anyone here, including my spouse who they held up as an example of success because they had three interviews set up, yet never actually set them up or returned any of our messages. Otherwise, employment is pretty hard as the Mexicans have enough trouble employing their own people.

Entertaining/social life? Consulate personnel throw great parties and there are lots of social events organized by the Community Liaison Office.

Size of Expat community? 50,000 Americans in Lake Chapala, mostly retired military and other retirees. Some in Guadalajara too, but not a very strong presence.

Dress code at work and in public? Mexicans tend to look a little bit sexier and more dressed up than Americans. The overall dress code is more casual than in DC. Lots of jeans. At work it's sort of business casual, but the men wear shirts and ties and the women tend to wear pants and sweaters or jackets. People don't tend to wear shorts in Guadalajara, though they do at the beach.

Health concerns (healthy, unhealthy, and how) and quality of medical care available? Medical and dental care are fantastic and cheap. There are Harvard-educated OB-Gyn's and Officers have had their babies here.

Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)? Good vets, don't know about kennels. The Mexicans over all take poor care of their animals, either locking them on their roofs or letting them roam in the streets procreating, but there are vets and parks to take the dogs to. The best park in town Colomos doesn't allow dogs. Mexicans in general don't like animals as much as Americans do and tend to think even the most submissive dog is going to bite them. Sometimes, people just randomly hit our dog as she walks past, even though she is very sweet and well trained.

Morale among expats? The city's great, but this is a visa mill and the work can be hard and numbing.

You can leave behind your: No need to stock up on toiletries or bathroom stuff, you can get it all here. Costco has everything.

But don't forget your: All of your clothes, summer and winter. It can get kind of cold in the winter.

Weather patterns: It's usually around 80 degrees, but in the winter it can be around 40 at night. None of the houses have heat and some people really get cold.

Can you save money? Yes, food is cheaper, eating out is less expensive than in DC. But there are lots of shopping opportunities to spend your extra cash.

What can you spend it on? Anything for a house. Pots, plants, clothes. The paintings are a little sad, but there are lots of decorative items.

Knowing what you now know, would you still go there? Yes, but the work is kind of boring and repetitive. There aren't many opportunities for rotations and you really end up doing visas for the whole time, which is a bit of a drag.

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August 2002

by Carrie Fox-Myers
(August 2002. Carrie has lived in Guadalajara for 20 months with my husband, a first-tour Consular Officer at the U.S. Consulate.)

Travel time to post from Europe or the US (check flight schedules with Expedia): Guadalajara is about a 12 hour drive from the Laredo, Texas, border, and 2 ½ hours by plane from Texas .

Average daily commute: Most families live in one of two gated, self-contained neighborhoods (Valle Real or Puerta de Hierro) that are about a 20-30 minute drive from the Consulate. Single officers or married officers without children are now living in apartments (closer to civilization and downtown!), which are about a10-15 minute drive to work. Since the Consulate opens at 8 am, officers and staff miss the morning rush hour, which is at about 9 am here.

Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)? Guadalajara still remains fairly healthy. There are hazy, dusty days at the height of the dry season in April and May, but generally pollution is not bad. Once the rainy season starts, the air is cooler and fresh.

Security concerns? Guadalajara IS safer than Washington, DC. I have heard of petty crimes, but mostly at the gas pump (watch that the gas attendant starts the pump at zero) or pick-pocketing tourists downtown. I practice caution by guarding my handbag and keeping the car windows rolled up and doors locked, especially at busy intersections (there are a lot of street vendors), but I have never felt unsafe. Officers and their families live in secure housing or apartments set away from main roads. Most developments have guards at the entrances whom question each visitor and take a form of identification.

Is housing predominantly apartments or houses with yards? The Consulate is moving to apartments for single officers or married officers without children. The apartments are ample and may include a small garden area in back. For families, there are many safe neighborhoods with good-sized houses and yards. Most housing developments are farther away from the center of town, restaurants, and shopping plazas.

International schools used by community: I do not have children, but know that some officers with small children ages 3-6 use a pre-school, named St. John's, outside one of the Valle Real neighborhoods. Children in kindergarten through 12th grades normally attend the American School.

Preschool available (quality)? St. John's is popular and instruction is in English. The children attend school 9 am to 1 pm weekdays.

Daycare available (quality)? Most families have a live-in maid/nanny to care for their children, or someone who baby-sits for a few hours during the day.

Good post for families/singles/couples? This is a great post for everyone, from singles to families. There are many dance clubs, which offer entertainment into the wee hours of the morning. There are wonderful restaurants, malls, a few museums, a zoo, amusement parks, and modern movie theaters with movies shown in English and Spanish (movies are about $4.50 per adult ticket for an evening show). In some neighborhoods there are clubs that have a restaurant, a pool, tennis courts, soccer fields and a gym (membership is required). The weekend presents opportunities for concerts, craft shows, or a drive to a nearby pueblo.

Good post for gay/lesbian expatriates? Guadalajara has a large gay population, although not very "out," as this is still a traditional and very Catholic country. I believe there are a few nightclubs that cater to the gay/lesbian community.

Interesting/fun things to do: This question could take a few pages! Guadalajara is centrally located to everything. We are 5 hours from Puerta Vallarta and 2-3 hours from other beaches, such as Manzanillo and San Blas. Historic Guanajuato and Mexico City are four and six hours away by car, respectively. Right outside of the city are two shopping towns, Tonalá and Tlaquepaque, which sell pottery, ceramics, blown glass, furniture (iron and wood), paper mâché animals, jewelry, and more. (If you are familiar with Pier One stores, much of the heavy glassware with blue/green rims comes from Tonalá!)

About 45 minutes to 1 hour away are the towns of Chapala and Ajijic (home to the largest North American ex-pat community in the world). In the other direction is the home of the legendary drink Tequila. There is a train every Saturday morning to the outskirts of Tequila called the "Tequila Express". The train takes about 2 hours to reach the Herradura Hacienda but includes lunch and entertainment at the hacienda.

The downtown area of Guadalajara (el centro) is a must see, with José Clemete Orozco murals in the Palacio del Gobierno and the Instituto Hospicio Cabañas. Also downtown is a beautiful cathedral built in the 1600s, the Teatro Degollado, the Mercado Libertad (more shopping, especially souvenirs), outside vendors, and, on Sunday and Thursday, the Ballet Folklorico (a Mexican folk dancing troupe) performs.

Guadalajara also has a large community of charros (Mexican cowboys) and every Saturday and Sunday there are charriadas (rodeos) in town. Soccer is also very popular here, and you are expected to pick your favorite team. Games are held on weekends at the local stadiums. For a change of pace, take a walk in one of Guadalajara's many parks.

What is there to do after-hours? Dinner out usually begins no earlier than 9 pm, so that is a full evening out in it's own right. Many people go out to dance and that always includes a live band playing popular dance songs. There are a few places to sit and listen to music, especially mariachi bands. An evening at the movies is an option with the VIP theaters. VIP theaters have leather recliners and food and drink service. The price for a VIP movie is about US$8 while the regular theaters (stadium seating) are about US$4.50. The movie theaters are world class, nicer than most theaters in D.C. Movies are usually here about 2-3 months after their release in the States and are shown in English with Spanish subtitles. Mvies for kids are usually dubbed into Spanish, though some theaters will alternate show times with dubbed films and subtitles.

Price of a Big Mac Meal (or similar)? Just a little bit less than in the States.

Fast food available? Yes, there is Burger King, Domino's Pizza (and other pizza chains), Kentucky Fried Chicken, McDonald's and Whattaburger. There are also taco restaurants that are very inexpensive (about 40 to 50 cents for a taco) and fast. I don't recommend eating at any roadside stands, but there are smaller restaurants that are quick and safe.

Decent restaurants available? YES!! There are plenty of restaurants for the meat-eater, and a few for the vegetarian, too. In addition to traditional regional cuisine, Guadalajara has Argentine, Chinese, Japanese, Greek, and Lebanese, restaurants. Typical Mexican dishes include: arrachera (a marinated thinner cut of beef), tortas ahogadas [literally a drowned (in a mild red sauce) pork sandwich on a hard roll], small tacos with shredded meat and seafood. The food itself in this part of the country is not hot and spicy, but there are salsas and hot sauces to add heat. For dessert, Guadalajara's bakeries and grocery stores have delicious cakes, pies, and pastries.

Food and groceries? Guadalajara has a WalMart superstore, Carrefore superstore, Sam's Club, Costco, Super G, and Gigante. The larger stores, like WalMart, carry practically everything from groceries to garden supplies. Items are reasonably priced, but American products are more expensive. There is also a specialty store that carries a lot of American products like chocolate chips and other baking products, certain types of crackers, root beer, cleaning products, etc., for twice the price in the states. I order canned tuna and some rice dishes, like the Near East brand, from Netgrocer. We have learned to enjoy all of the delicious produce and pastries here, but sometimes need a fix from home. It is not a very international community, so finding ingredients for a Thai or Indian dinner will be difficult.

Items you would ship if you could do it again? Blankets and small rugs. We arrived in December and it is cold at night!

Availability and cost of domestic help? For a day maid, salaries range from about US$10 to US$15 per day, plus bus fare. Live-in maid/nanny is about US$250 per month, and the employer pays for everything (food, clothes, etc.). Day maids are easy to find but a live-in/nanny is more difficult.

Realistic language needs: I recommend learning some Spanish before arriving at this post. The literacy rate here is lower than I expected and the people working in the supermarkets, the market areas, or driving a taxi normally know only a few words of English. You can get by without Spanish if you are patient and good at charades. Mexicans are generally very helpful and patient; so don't get frustrated if you are having a communication problem. Courtesy is very ritualized here, so be sure to know at least "please", "thank you," and a few common greetings and words of departure.

English-language newspaper/TV: The only broad scope English language newspaper comes to the Consulate from Mexico City. There are some local newsweeklies in English, but these cater to the largely retired North American community resident in the area. Certain stores carry English-language magazines, but cost twice as much as they would in the States. All the cable and satellite companies have channels in English and they carry the popular shows in English with Spanish subtitles. The Consulate has videos in the Administrative Section (sent from the Embassy) to take home. There are Blockbuster and local video rental stores.

Cable/Satellite TV Available? There are a few cable companies from which to choose, if you are lucky enough to have cable on your street. There are also Sky TV and Direct TV satellite companies. Direct TV is about US$40 per month not including movie channels (with equipment rental). It has about 100 other channels. Direct TV has pay-per-view movie channels for only US$3.00 per movie. The movies are relatively new (within 6 months) and in English with Spanish subtitles.

Internet access available (cost & quality)? Guadalajara has ISDN through the cable companies, DSL, and dial-up services, including AOL and local ISPs. ISDN and DSL cost about US$40-50 per month and dial up is about U.S. prices. ISDN and DSL are very reliable and fast. AOL is slower of course, but if you if pay for a year in advance, there is a discount and you can get the tax (15%) back if you ask for a "factura".

Wages and job opportunities for Expats on the local economy? Opportunities to work on the local economy are practically non-existent. The pilot work program through the FLO tried to help about a half dozen spouses here last year, but failed miserably. I was part of the program. Unless there are openings at the Consulate (and there are few), it will be difficult to find work. Teaching English at one of the local universities or a Berlitz school may be a possibility, but expect a very low paycheck, maybe US$700 per month.

Entertaining/social life? People are very friendly here, both Mexicans and Americans, so finding something to do weekends and weeknights is not hard. Also, expect to have a lot of visiting friends and family. Most of us do! When entertaining, always plan for more people than you invited. It is not uncommon for guests to bring dates or even cousins from out of town without notice. "Está en tu casa" is not just a saying here!

English-language religious services attended by expatriates? There is a Catholic mass every Sunday in English at one of the local churches. There are other religious affiliations here, but I'm not sure if they offer services in English.

Size of Expat community? There are a few thousand in Guadalajara. One university has a medical school and others have exchange programs where many American students are enrolled. Move outside the city, to the areas of Lake Chapala and Ajijic, and there are about 50,000. You can expect to see and hear visitors speaking English if you are in downtown Guadalajara, Chapala, Ajijic, Guanajuato, or San Miguel de Allende.

Dress code at work and in public? Business casual attire at the Consulate (slacks and ties for men, casual business wear for ladies). In public, Mexicans generally do not wear shorts, even in the hottest weather. Jeans are popular, but are not permitted in some restaurants or dance clubs. Mexicans tend to dress up more frequently than their American counterparts.

Health concerns (healthy, unhealthy, and how)? Some people with respiratory problems may be concerned in the driest months with the amount of dust in the air. Sinus and respiratory infections are somewhat common here in those months, because humidity levels are very low. Intestinal problems also occur, as can be expected.

Quality medical care available? Medical and dental care here is fine. You can buy all medications at the local drugstore. There are quite a few hospitals in the area too. Dental care here is affordable and doctors and dentists do speak English.

Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)? Veterinary care is available and it is good. Some vets will drive to your home to pick up your pet if s/he needs vaccinations or a check-up. You can buy Science Diet and other brands of pet food at the vet's office. I don't know anything about kennels. Usually a pet-friendly Consulate member or your help will look after your pet(s) if you go away for a period of time.

Morale among Expats? I think morale is good. Everyone has a gripe about the daily grind, but at the day's end, you are in beautiful Guadalajara! There are enough things to do in this city that you can spend time with or without your co-workers.

You can leave behind your: Dehumidifiers and winter wear (but bring a light jacket and a few sweatshirts, there are no heating systems in the houses).

But don't forget your: Appetite; bathing suit; sunscreen (very strong sun here); humidifiers; and space heater (for about 4 weeks in Dec./Jan. you will need it!)

Weather patterns: Hot and dry and warm and wet. The dry season is from late September/October to May and the rainy season is the other half of the year. Guadalajara has sunshine practically every day, even during the rainy season. This is the best weather I have ever lived in. Most of the time it is pleasant and dry with sunshine and low humidity.

Can you save money? If you have a lot of willpower, sure! There are so many places to travel and so many beautiful pieces of folk art, jewelry, or furniture to buy. Traveling on the highways is expensive (tolls are 4-5 times the US average and gas is US$2.50+/ gallon), but usually hotels and meals at your destination are reasonable.

Knowing what you now know, would you still go there? YES!!!! My husband and I feel very fortunate to have experienced Mexico on our first tour. Guadalajara is close to home but far enough away so that you have the real "overseas" experience.

Recommended Internet links for further research: There is a lot of information on the web related to Guadalajara and Mexico, www.mexconnect.com is my favorite. www.allaboutguadalajara.com is very useful with phone numbers and information for restaurants, tours and nightclubs. The site gives basic information on weather, shopping areas and things-to-do. Also there is the Universidad Autonoma de Guadalajara website at www.uag.mx that will give you information on classes in Spanish. The Autonoma has a very good program that is 5 days a week from 9am to 1pm. Each session is a month long and there are beginner through advanced classes. www.go2mexico.com gives tourist information for Guadalajara and other cities in Mexico. It has a small guide of popular and useful phrases in Spanish.

Any other comments: You will receive a tax card to present at the grocery store, restaurants, or anywhere the merchant charges a 15% tax called IVA (value added tax). If you ask for a "factura" you can submit your receipts to the Embassy for reimbursement, as long as the purchases total more than $50.00 USD. Also, save water receipts from the convenience store and from the water delivery service for the water you drink, gallon size and larger (5 liter). You will be reimbursed by submitting receipts to the GSO. Try to carry small bills and coins. Most stores (large and especially small) do not have change so you could be waiting a long time until she/he returns from a trip down the street to see who has change. Small coins are used to tip everyone from the gas attendant to the boy/girl who bags your groceries. Grocery stores do not have paper bags, only plastic.

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June 2000

By Susan W. Story
(Susan was affiliated with the US Consulate.)

Travel time to post from Europe or the US (check flight schedules with Expedia): Air travel time from Atlanta to Guadalajara (via Delta) is about 3 ½ hours (maybe 4??), and air travel time from Dallas to Guadalajara (via American) is about 2 ½ hours. Driving time from the border city of Laredo is about 14-15 hours.

Average Daily Commute: About 20 minutes.

Pollution Index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy): Good except for about 2 months during the dry season when the dust really becomes unbearable.

Security Concerns: Guadalajara isn’t faced with the grim security situation of Mexico City. You have to take the normal security precautions that you’d take in any city, but there’s definitely no reason to be afraid to leave home by yourself.

Apartments or Houses with Yards: With the exception of a few single people who live in nice, spacious apartments, most families live in lovely homes in gated communities. Homes typically have 3-4 bedrooms and bathrooms, living room, dining room, den, kitchen, maid’s quarters, patio, and small-ish backyard. The homes are either traditional Mexican (with lots of terracotta tiles and colored walls), "nuevo" Mexican (with lots of white marble), or some combination of the two. One of the communities in which a number of Consulate families live has lots of parks and green spaces. There is a huge park near all the Consulate housing that has great jogging/walking trails, flower and Japanese gardens, snack bars, horseback riding, circuit training equipment, etc. Because many of the houses are in gated communities, security is good.

International Schools: We don’t have children, but I believe that most Consulate parents and students are pleased with the American School here. The school offers tons of Honors and AP classes for high school students, as well as many extracurricular activities for all ages, including sports, drama, cheerleading, music, Model United Nations, etc. The school facilities are nice with good computer labs, libraries, swimming pool, auditorium, gym, etc. 

Preschool Available: I know that preschools are available, but I don’t know too much about them. The American School offers a preschool to children 3 and over.

Daycare Available: Most families employ domestic help who provide any daycare that’s necessary. Also many families employ drivers who take their children to and from school as well as to and from after-school activities.

Good Post for Families: I think this is a great post for families. The city is very child-friendly, but even those of us without children benefit from fun activities, low prices, and nice socializing with other families. There are parks; a zoo; waterslides nearby; decent (and affordable) restaurants; cheap tennis lessons; almost year-round swimming; horseback riding; dance lessons really cheap, really nice movie theaters with stadium seating, etc. PLUS there are lots of great cities and beaches to visit within a 3-4 hour drive.

Good Post for Singles: I think this post is "okay" for singles. The attitude towards dating and relationships seems to be much more conservative than in other Latin American countries (at least according to singles here), so that’s one cultural difference singles have to get used to. I don’t know how easy it is to meet "nice" people here on the "single scene." I’ll leave this one for those better versed in the subject!

Price of a Big Mac Meal: Maybe about $3.50-$4.00 USD?

American Fast Food Available: They have a lot here – Pizza Hut, Domino’s, McDonald’s, Burger King, KFC, Subway, Carl’s Junior, etc. Plus there are Dunkin’ Donuts and Baskin Robbins ice cream shops everywhere.

Food and Groceries: We have several branches of Wal-Mart Supercenter, Sam’s Club, and Costco in Guadalajara, plus there are a number of Mexican supercenter-type chains. There’s really very little that you’ll miss here or that you can’t find acceptable substitutes for. We’ve noticed a slight increase in grocery store prices since the beginning of the year, but things are still very affordable. For those American products that you "can’t" live without but can’t find in the Wal-Mart, you can shop at a chain of small gourmet grocery stores called Goiti that carries American-made products at high prices. Goiti also has a great bakery (at very affordable prices).

Domestic Help Available: Domestic help is available and cheap. Consulate families tend to pay higher daily wages than Mexican families do for their housekeepers. Wages currently being paid for daily (not live-in) housekeepers by Consulate families are between about $8-$12 USD a day, depending on how much experience the housekeeper has, whether you have children or pets, how many hours a day they work, etc. Housekeepers will do virtually anything you ask them to do, including laundry, ironing, cooking, cleaning, watering lawn, taking care of children, etc. Be aware that if you’re picky, you’ll probably spend a lot of time training and retraining unless you get a housekeeper who was well-trained by somebody in the past. Finding a housekeeper is basically done by word-of-mouth with other Consulate families.

Realistic Language Needs: Speaking Spanish will really make your life so much easier, but many Mexicans do speak English. My experience is that more Mexicans speak English than are willing to admit (until they know you better), but that doesn’t help you at all when you’re in a crunch and can’t communicate with someone who won’t admit to knowing any English when you don’t speak much Spanish.

English-Language Newspaper/TV: There’s a daily English-language newspaper out of Mexico City (aptly called The News) that covers world news with a focus on Mexico and the U.S. There’s a weekly English-language newspaper called The Guadalajara Colony Reporter (out of Guadalajara obviously) that covers strictly local news pertaining primarily to the Americans who reside in the greater Guadalajara area. The web site for this paper is www.guadalajarareporter.com.

If you have cable or satellite tv, you can watch some programming in English. One cable company offers the three major American networks; however, this cable company is only available to residents within the city limits of Guadalajara (and most of us are not in the city limits). The other cable company and the couple mini-satellite companies offer CNN (either International or U.S. format, depending on the company), ESPN, some movie channels, plus the Sony Channel which carries many of the popular U.S. nighttime television shows, all in English.

Cable TV Available: There are two cable companies in Guadalajara, but very few neighborhoods where Consulate families live offer cable service at this time. The other alternative is to have one of those mini-satellites installed on your roof – there are several companies locally that provide this service. Monthly rates are comparable to those in the U.S. for either service. We used a cable company for most of the first year we were here, but we switched to DirectTV (with a mini-satellite) earlier this year. The only negative to the switch is that with the cable company, we got the U.S. version of CNN (which we prefer), and now we get the International Version. The big positive is that with DirectTV, I can turn the Spanish dubbing off and actually watch shows in English on previously-unused channels (like Discovery-type channel and People and Arts, etc). The cable company didn’t give us that option – except for CNN, ESPN, Sony, and a few other channels, everything was dubbed in Spanish. Other than that, there’s really no difference in any of the companies (unless, of course, you live in the city limits and can get the cable company that offers U.S. networks).

Internet Access Available: Internet service is available from a number of companies in Guadalajara and, depending on the company, is very reliable. We’ve used the same company since we arrived here and have had no problems with service whatsoever. We pay about $30 USD a month for something outrageous like 500 hours of Internet service (which we never use but which the company has gone to as their minimum now).

What are Wages (for expats) Like on the Local Economy: I really have no idea about this. None of the spouses currently work on the local economy and I don’t know any other expats who work here. I don’t think it’s very much at all as the daily minimum wage in Guadalajara as of this writing (6-7-00) is something like 36 pesos (which is less than $4). There are more jobs than ever for spouses at the Consulate – currently there are 9 positions for spouses.

Entertaining Expected: No official entertaining is expected of junior officers, and "command performances" are very limited. In the 16 months we’ve been here, we’ve been to a couple parties at the Consul General’s residence, and my husband has been to a reasonable (but not by any means excessive) number of "official" events. Informal social gatherings either in people’s homes or in restaurants are much more common.

Size of Official/Social Community: There are about 30 American officials at post plus their families. The only other official Consulate in Guadalajara, I believe, is the Canadian Consulate, so there are no community activities between other diplomatic groups.

Dress Code at Work: The dress code is anything from slacks and ties to suits for men and dresses, pants, skirts, or suits for women. This is definitely NOT a navy blue, pin-striped, Wall Street suit kind of place.

Medical Officer at Post: There is no medical officer at post. We have frequent contact with the nurse practitioner at the Embassy in Mexico City, and we’re supposed to have visits every quarter from either her or the Regional Medical Officer, who is based out of El Salvador. We do have a post medical advisor, who is a local doctor prepared to deal with Consulate personnel as needed. Additionally, there are two hospitals here with fine emergency rooms in the event one is needed.

Pet Care Available: We don’t have a pet here, but there appear to be good vets available as well as good pet food and other supplies.

Morale at Post: I think that generally post morale is good – the housing is great, living conditions are good, proximity to the U.S. is good, etc. However, this is a visa mill so there are issues facing junior officers who do visa interviews day in and day out and face some element of burnout quickly.

Don’t Forget Your: Bathing suit – you can swim or at least sit in the sun nearly all year long! Also bring tennis racquets and tennis balls if you play. Both are expensive to buy locally.

Weather Patterns: The rainy season is in the summer from June to September. The daytime temperatures are very pleasant during this time, and rains generally come at night. Once the rainy season ends, the daytime temperatures remain nice but nighttime temperatures can drop into the 30s by November and December. The weather remains pleasant until about February. At that point, the rainy season is nothing but a distant memory; everything is dry and brown and the area gets VERY DUSTY. Being from South Carolina, I didn’t fully appreciate the meaning of "dry climate," so from about February to June, I have to sleep practically on top of a humidifier just to be able to get a decent night’s sleep. The months of April and May are the worst – daytime temperatures are in the 90s and the dust is everywhere. People with allergies seem to suffer a lot during this time. Also a lot of people seemed to have conjunctivitis ("pink eye") during this time.

Everything you read says that Guadalajara is the land of perennial spring-like temperatures, but most Guadalajarans agree that this is changing – winter temperatures are getting colder and summer temperatures are getting hotter.

Can You Save Money at Post: You can if you want to. But there are just too many great things to spend your money on here. Guadalajara is home to some of the greatest (if not THE greatest) artisan work in all of Mexico, so you can buy loads of quality stuff for a fraction of what it would cost in the U.S. Plus there are great trips to be taken out of Guadalajara. While each trip may not be that expensive on its own, they all add up when you take them repeatedly. While you may not save as much money as you’d like, you definitely shouldn’t go into debt here.

Knowing What You Now Know, Would You Still Go There: DEFINITELY! My husband is tired of the never-ending visa work, but we both agree that it’s a great place to live.

Recommended Movies/Videos Related to Post: Like Water for Chocolate is the only Mexican movie I can think of at the moment. If you haven’t seen it, it’s a wonderful movie and shows a lot of the Mexican importance on family. 

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May 2000

By Debbie Negron
(May 2000. Debbie was affiliated withthe US Embassy. Read Debbie's other contrbiution on Bern.)

Travel time to post from Europe or the US (check flight schedules with Expedia): It depends on where in the US you live -- it takes about 8 hours from East Coast. There are several flights daily from Dallas (American), Houston (Continental), Atlanta (Delta), Chicago (United), and Los Angeles (American). It is about a 2 hour 15 minute flight from Dallas to Guadalajara and 3 1/2 hours from Atlanta. There are also flights from Mexico City into Guadalajara.

Average Daily Commute: About 20 minutes -- depending which part of the city you live in.

Pollution Index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy): Moderate -- certainly not as bad as Mexico City.

Security Concerns: Not much different from any other city. Almost everyone lives in gated communities with strict guard access.

Apartments or Houses with Yards: Almost everyone is assigned a house with a yard. A few single people live in beautiful apartments with no yard but with close access to the park.

International Schools: There is a good American school, but I don't know much more as I do not have school age children.

Daycare Available: Yes, but most employ a nanny in their home. The average cost for a nanny to work an 8-hour day is approximately $10 a day.

Good Post for Families: It as a very good post for families. There are many things for children to do ie. Gymboree, ice skating, bowling, numerous movie theaters (virtually all show the movies in English with Spanish subtitles), several Blockbuster video stores, arcades, first-rate zoo, parks. The cost of living is low enough to take advantage of all the entertainment possibilities.

Good Post for Singles: This is a very good post for singles. The singles assigned here love it. There are numerous dance clubs, gyms, bars and restaurants, soccer games, classes (people have taken language, dance, cooking etc). Also, the Mexicans are very warm and friendly and like to have fun. They are easy to meet.

American Fast Food Available: KFC, Pizza Hut, McDonalds, Burger King, Carl's Junior, Whattaburger, Dunkin Donuts, Baskin Robbins, Dairy Queen, and Dominos. Not fast food but worth mentioning -- there is a Chili's and Hard Rock Cafe here.

Food and Groceries: Widely available and for the most part less expensive than in the US. The only exception is that some American imports are a little more expensive. There is a huge Wal-Mart that is like the one in the States plus a huge supermarket section. There is also the French chain -- Carrefour. There is a store called Goiti that is expensive but carries many American imports.

Domestic Help Available: Yes, almost everyone employs help. Most people employ a part-time gardener and a maid.

English-Language Newspaper/TV: There is a daily newspaper called "The News" that is published in Mexico City. There is also a weekly called "The Guadalajara Reporter."

Cable TV Available: English language TV is available via cable or satellite TV. There are three cable companies -- but you do not get to choose the company -- it is based on where you live. If your house is in Guadalajara proper, the cable company, Megacable, carries all the networks (ABC, NBC, CBS). If you live just outside city limits (where many Consulate families do) -- you won't get the networks but you do get the Sony channel which carries most popular sitcoms like: ER, Friends, Frasier etc. MTV, CNN, Fox (although some of the shows are dubbed into Spanish), and HBO are also available.

Internet Access Available: There are several good Internet service providers available.

What are Wages Like on the Local Economy: Very low -- few spouses feel it is worth the time to work outside the Consulate or the American School.

Entertaining Expected: Very little expected -- but opportunities are available if you like to entertain.

Dress Code at Work: For men -- collared shirt and tie with slacks. Men do not have to wear ties during the hot months. For women -- a blouse with skirt or pants.

Medical Officer at Post: No, but there is a nurse in Mexico City that travels once a quarter. There is also good medical care available locally.

Morale at Post: Fairly high depending who is in charge -- especially for those that take advantage of what Mexico has to offer.

You Can Leave Behind Your: Skis -- no snow skiing anywhere in Mexico.

But Don't Forget Your: Chocolate chips, Goya Products and root beer. For some reason, chocolate chips and Goya products (unless you eat at the Puerto Rican restaurant) are impossible to find. Root beer is available at Goiti but it is expensive.

Weather Patterns: Very comfortable and pleasant. The only exception is April and May where it can get very hot. Early June to late September is rainy season.

Can You Save Money at Post: If you want to save money you can. There is a 5% differential and most things are cheap.

Knowing What You Know Now, Would You Still Go There: We would absolutely come here again. Everything (except skiing) is available here. There are many historical sites, beaches, colonial cities etc. Most things that one has in the States are available here but at a lower cost.

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Disclaimer: Contributed Content. Some of the information in Real Post Reports are written by Americans assigned to U.S. Embassies and Consulates may not apply to other expatriates and military personnel, and vice versa. The views and opinions of authors expressed do not necessarily reflect those of Tales from a Small Planet and may not be used for advertising or product endorsements. Real Post Reports are personal opinions, not official facts, and we do not guarantee that the information therein is complete, accurate or relevant. The reports make great reading, but keep in mind that your experiences may differ from those presented here. Neither Tales nor those who have volunteered their comments for Real Post Reports can be held liable for any injury that may result from the reliance on information contained in the reports or your personal happiness at post! Thank you.